São Paulo, Brazil – Avenida Paulista, the beating heart of São Paulo, was transformed on Sunday, August 17th, into a sea of red and black as devotees of Afro-Brazilian religions gathered in unprecedented numbers to celebrate Èṣù, the Yorùbá deity of communication, movement, and the crossroads. From the train stations to the broad avenues, chants, drums, and banners filled the city center as participants joined the 3rd Marcha para Exu “ March for Èsù .Organized around the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP), the demonstration invited all to wear the deity’s colors and to contribute non-perishable food donations destined for vulnerable communities.
The March for Èsù has become a fixture in Brazil’s religious and cultural calendar. Its first edition in 2023 gathered tens of thousands and marked a historic moment of visibility for religions of African origin. In 2024, the event returned with music, dance, and ritual performance, drawing national attention as Avenida Paulista became a living temple. This year’s edition reinforced the march’s significance. Organizers and cultural outlets described the gathering as a “grito de resistência” (“cry of resistance”), underscoring both devotion and the fight against religious intolerance. The sight ofi Paulista entirely dressed in red and black offered a striking visual symbol of unity, faith, and pride in African heritage.
Èṣù, known in Yorùbá tradition as the opener of pathways and guardian of the crossroads, holds a central place in Afro-Brazilian spirituality. For centuries, however, the deity was demonized through colonial and Christian misrepresentation. The March for Èsù “Marcha para Exu” directly counters these prejudices, affirming Èṣù’s role as mediator, protector, and communicator. “The march is more than celebration , it is a declaration that we exist, that our faith is part of Brazil, and that we will not be silenced,” said one participant as the drums echoed through the avenue. Beyond the symbolic power of reclaiming public space, the march also carried a social mission. Thousands of kilograms of food collected during the event will support families in need across São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, turning ritual into solidarity.
The march also moved the city’s economy in significant ways, generating millions of dollars in business. Hotels and lodgings reported a surge in reservations, restaurants and vendors thrived, and sales of traditional clothing, food, and religious items soared. Pilgrims and devotees traveled from across Brazil—Bahia, Rio de Janeiro, Pernambuco, Minas Gerais, and beyond making the march feel less like a one-day demonstration and more like a national festival dedicated to Èṣù. For many, Paulista became not only a spiritual crossroads but also an economic and cultural hub, reaffirming the Orisa role as the force that opens paths and brings people together.
Media coverage of the march has grown steadily over its three editions. In 2023, organizers highlighted the turnout of over 60,000 people. In 2024, national reports emphasized the event’s festive yet political character. This year, 2025, the March for Èsù “Marcha para Exu “ again reaffirmed that Afro-Brazilian religions are not marginal traditions but vital expressions of identity, history, and belonging. While precise crowd numbers varied, the atmosphere was undeniable: Avenida Paulista became a spiritual crossroads, alive with oríkì (praises), cantos, capoeira rodas, and collective prayer.
“ I have followed Èṣù since I was a child. Walking through Avenida Paulista today, surrounded by millions in red and black, I feel the power of our faith flowing through every drumbeat and every chant. Èṣù is the lord of the crossroads—he opens paths, carries our messages to the divine, and teaches us to navigate life with balance and wisdom. This march is more than a celebration; it is a declaration that our religion, our culture, and our ancestors are alive in Brazil. We come from different cities, different states, yet we are united by devotion, pride, and a desire to show the world that Afro-Brazilian traditions are vibrant, resilient, and sacred. Every step I take today is a prayer, a resistance, and a testimony to the enduring presence of Èṣù in our lives.”- Jaime Carlos de Exu
As dusk fell and the procession reached its end, a simple message remained: Èṣù opens the way, and through him, Brazil walks forward—toward recognition, respect, resilience, and prosperity.
